Old Hyndman Peak
The Following route information was provided by (1) Steve Sheriff of Missoula, Montana and (2) Dean Lords of Idaho Falls (with photo below).
(1) Steve Sheriff and Kevin Murray route on the North Ridge.
Old Hyndman Peak, North Ridge, II 5.7, 10/6/2001. Kevin Murray easily
convinced me to climb the north ridge of Old Hyndman. We started at the
campground in Wildhorse Creek, approached and, with some 3rd class and 6 or
7 pitches of broken rock, reached the summit via the north ridge. The last
pitch, just below the summit, had a few 5.7 moves, the others were lower
fifth class. In terms of line and directness, this was a high character
route; it suffers from low quality, but tolerable/manageable, rock. We
elected to descend the south ridge into the Hyndman basin north of Cobb,
woke up a couple mountain goats, crossed the saddle between Old Hyndman and
Hyndman, got back to the north ridge, and still ended up with two raps on
that ridge. 12 hours round trip. This makes a good tour of the mountain.
Steve Sheriff
(2) Dean Lords.
"The Travis Michaelis Memorial Route"
Hyndman Peak: Northeast Face
WI 4, M5, (1800 feet)
May 14th, 2004
Abe Dickerson and I completed a new ephemeral ice route on the Northeast Face of Hyndman Peak. This route starts on the obvious thin ice smear flowing from a snow bowl in the middle of the Northeast Face. One sixty meter pitch of very thin WI 4 leads to a rock belay at the base of the snow bowl. Two pitches of 50° to 60° snow and rolling WI 3 slabs lead to another hanging snow slope. The fourth pitch climbed this hanging snow bowl and finished in a narrow ice runnel below a headwall of ice and rock. The next section was the crux and was passed in two 30 meter pitches of technical mixed climbing on thin vertical ice and some exciting sections of dry tooling and mixed climbing up to M5 in difficulty. The seventh pitch started with a WI 3 corner which lead to a steep snow ramp. The eighth pitched crossed the Northeast ridge and a narrow 60° couloir was climbed to the summit after appox. 400 feet. The entire route is threatened by massive cornices hanging from the East Ridge.