New Routes

Psycho Therapy. III, AI 4, M6, 5.9+, 1,200 feet.
Dean Lords, Brian Wood
September 18th, 2003

This route ascends the ominous near vertical couloir and black shaft on the extreme right side of the North Face proper.  Psycho Therapy is a modern mixed alpine climb that involves sustained technical climbing on both rock and ice. The difficulty will depend greatly on the amount of ice present during the ascent. This route would be preferable during late autumn or early to mid spring when the rock is frozen in place and a substantial amount of ephemeral ice can be found on the vertical sections of the shaft. With more ice than what was found on the first ascent, this route could offer enjoyable climbing at a moderate difficulty.

     Start with a few pitches of residual ice, mixed with icy rock steps to reach a small snow patch below the crux shaft. Belay as high as possible to the entrance of the shaft making sure your location is safe from falling debris. The shaft (a.k.a. Shock Treatment!), ranging in width from three to six feet, contains near vertical and vertical climbing on icy runnels and grooves, steep snow covered rock, chockstones, and sections of residual ice. Try to arrange the next belay below the obvious chockstone half way up the shaft (70 meters). This chockstone can be passed on the right wall by climbing a short section of steep 5.5 rock, or one could squeeze through the slot underneath the chockstone. Once past this first chockstone, continue up the shaft, passing underneath a second chockstone on steep ice and/or difficult rock to reach the upper confines of the couloir. One and a half pitches of steep ice with a little bit of rock at the top lead to the end of the couloir. Scramble and down climb the Northwest Face of Spur 11,557 as a means to return to the mouth of Rock Creek.