Elevation: 9,780 ft
Prominence: 200
Climbing and access information for this formation is on Pages 183-184 of the book. The Finger of Fate was damaged a 6.4 magnitude earthquake in early 2020. The top section of rock fell off the formation. Gary Gettman provided the discussion and marked up photos of “New” Finger of Fate’s remodelled summit set out below. Gary also directed me to Chase Christoper’s video, “Climbing Finger of Fate After Earthquake” (July 2020). Updated December 2020
The book listed the six most popular routes on this formation as the year 2000. The 2020 earthquake knocked the top of the summit off the formation and also dislodged granite in other places. Consequently, it is unclear if any of the routes described in the book have been altered. The Open Book Route was the most popular route before the earthquake. (See John Platt’s trip report for the Open Book Route.) The first winter ascent was by James Christopher Hecht, Harry Bowron, Gordon K. Williams and Joe Fox on March 19, 1973. Read about their ascent at this link: The First Winter Ascent of the Finger of Fate by Jacques Bordeleau. USGS Mount Cramer
This photo by John Platt shows the Open Book Route. Check out John’s trip report for the definitive beta on this climb and many more photos.
2020 Earthquake Alterations by Gary Gettman
My partner Jim Manning and I ascended the West Crack Route on the Finger of Fate and entered the tunnel. From there we “spelunked” our way up to the ledge at the base of the Fingernail. We used the block with the asterisk for a rappel anchor. The boulder next to it in the Bordeleau photo (showing the climber stretching across) is the new summit. The Fingernail overhung the northeast side of the Finger of Fate and was balanced precariously along the edge of the light-colored rock in the Christopher screenshot.
This is a 1973 Jacques Bordeleau photo. I outlined the edge of the fallen summit boulder in red and refer to it here and elsewhere as the “Fingernail.”
The asterisk marks the same small block in all three images.
The Finger of Fate
The Finger of Fate as viewed from the east.
There is a lot of good camping nearby.
A Union Pacific Poster promoting Idaho.
Additional Resources
Regions: Grand Mogul Cramer Divide->Sawtooth Range->WESTERN IDAHO
Mountain Range: Sawtooth Range
First Ascent Information:
- First Ascent Year: 1958
- Season: Summer
- Route: The Book (II, 5.8)
- Party: Lois Stur and Jerry Fuller
- Other First Ascent: East Face (III, 5.11)
- Year: 1967
- Season: Summer
- Party: J. Beaupre, G. Vendor and E. Vendor.
- Other First Ascent: Reid Dowdle and D. Hough climbed the two obvious lines to the left of the East Face Route in 1978.
- Year: 1978
- Season: Spring
- Party: Reid Dowdle and D. Hough
- Other First Ascent: Drizzlepuss (II. 5.7)
- Year:
- Season: Summer
- Party: B. Gorton and S. Collins.
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