Find Nearby Peaks

Climbing and access information for this peak is on Page 267 of the book. Updated November 2021

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I hope to climb Hope Peak some day. I have climbed all the surrounding peaks and found it enticing, but it was always just out of reach. Hope Peak is located northeast of Mount Darcy and southeast of Trinity Peak. Hope Peak looks completely different from every vantage point. Rick Baugher made the first ascent in 1993. His route is set out in the book. This page provides Livingston Douglas’ route information for his 2014 first ascent of the peak’s northwest ridge. USGS Grouse Creek Mountain

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Northwest Ridge Route, Class 2-3 by Livingston Douglas 

Approach

I approached Hope Peak via a ridge traverse from the summit of Trinity Peak. I climbed Trinity Peak from the East Fork of Christian Gulch [(C)(4)(a)] via its Southeast Ridge.

The Climb

From the south summit of Trinity Peak, follow the narrow ridge crest south to a small saddle at 10,460 feet. Continue south along the ridge, skirting the northeast side of Point 10721 to avoid unnecessary elevation gain. The ridge turns southeast here. Climb up over a double-humped ridge point then drop 150 feet to a final saddle that sits directly below the northwest ridge of Peak 11010. Follow the ridge southeast to the rocky summit of Peak 11010, skirting the southwest side of a false summit en route. Most of the ridge traverse from Trinity Peak is easy Class 2, with goat trails to help. The final climb to the summit of Peak 11010 is easy Class 3. There was nothing on top of this peak so I build a respectable cairn.

If you plan to climb Mount Darcy via the East Buttress/South Ridge Route, the summit of Peak 11010 is a good perch from which to see exactly what the east buttress looks like. The East Buttress rises up to Point 10750 on the south ridge of Mount Darcy. Given the forest-and-boulder mix of the gulch that leads up to the base of the east buttress, you might have difficulty identifying which buttress is the correct one to climb from that gulch. However, the view from Peak 11010 will help you avoid mistakenly climbing the east buttress that climbs to Point 10757 on Mount Darcy’s south ridge. More importantly, the view will help you avoid mistakenly climbing the ominous-looking east ridge of Mount Darcy. I climbed the East Buttress/South Ridge Route on Mount Darcy the next day.