Find Nearby Peaks

This peak is not in the book. Published December 2023

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Peak 10014 is located on the Heyburn Divide due east of Braxon Peak and northeast of the Aguilles. Surprisingly, while it was climbed at some point, it was overlooked by climbers until LiDAR measurements identified it as exceeding ten thousand feet. USGS Mount Cramer

Access

Same as for Braxon Peak.

Northwest Face, Class 4/4+

Pass over the Braxon Peak/Peak 10014 saddle. You can drop down a bit or save elevation by cutting straight across. Expect to encounter snow here so bringing an ice axe or traction devices is wise. In mid-August, I found myself nervously traversing icy snow patches holding sharp rocks in my hands like some sort of prehistoric mountaineer.

The route starts up a couloir that gouges the northwest face (see photos). Midway up, a large chockstone blocks the route. You could argue that this is the crux. I took a Class 4 bypass on the right. I had to sweep sand and gravel off little shelves along the way, which made me suspect this area could have recently been modified in the 2020 earthquake. There was a cleaner bypass to the left of the chockstone, but it looked more like proper rockclimbing up a wall to me. I found a rap station above the chockstone.

Side note: I attempted to go to the top of the couloir and traverse the summit ridge. After doing some Class 4 climbing, I came to a definitive dead end. Even with gear, I couldn’t see a way past it. I found more matching webbing here but it wasn’t attached to anything.

Perhaps 50 feet below the top of the couloir, look to the left for a shelf that cuts diagonally up the face. That’s how to reach the summit. The shelf gets roomier as you ascend but, unfortunately, is non-existent at the very bottom. You’ll have to channel your inner mountain goat for a few moves to get there. Eventually, the shelf leads you to some bigger scrambling moves off to the right that put you on the summit ridge for the final stretch.